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EV & Smart Home

EV Charger Installation

A dedicated Level 2 circuit sized for the car you have and the one after it.

Overview

EV Charger Installation — what's involved

A Level 2 charger is a dedicated 240-volt circuit with a substantial continuous load on the end of it, and that is the part worth getting right. Continuous loads are sized at 125 percent of their rating, so a 48-amp charger needs a 60-amp circuit — not a spare slot and a hope. The first question on every EV charger job is not which unit to buy, it is whether your service can carry it, and that is answered with a load calculation rather than a guess.

The installation photographed above is a typical good outcome: a wall-mounted unit in the garage fed from a compact sub-panel, with the run in neatly bent metal conduit and the cable coiled on its holster rather than pooled on the floor. Electric Shock handles the whole sequence — load calculation, circuit, any panel or service work it depends on, mounting, and commissioning the unit on your network.

Wall-mounted EV charger installed in a garage next to a compact sub-panel, fed by neatly bent metal conduit, with the charging cable coiled on its holster below.
Level 2 EV charger fed from a dedicated garage sub-panel — our own work.
Included

EV charging work

  • Load calculation to confirm what your existing service can actually support
  • Dedicated 240V circuits, commonly 40A or 60A, sized to the charger's continuous rating
  • Hardwired units and NEMA 14-50 / 6-50 receptacle installations
  • Garage sub-panels where the main panel is full or a long way from the parking spot
  • Load management devices that let a charger share capacity on a constrained service
  • Outdoor, carport and detached-garage installations in wet-rated equipment
  • Conduit runs, mounting, commissioning and connection to the unit's app or network
  • Provision for a second charger, roughed in now for a second vehicle later
How it works

The EV Charger Installation process

  1. Run the load calculation

    We total your existing service load and add the charger as a continuous load. This tells us immediately whether you need a straightforward circuit, a load management device, or a service upgrade first.

  2. Settle the location

    Where the car parks, which side its port is on, and whether you will ever park a second vehicle there. Cable length is fixed once the unit is on the wall, so this is worth five minutes.

  3. Decide hardwired or plug-in

    Hardwiring is required above 48 amps and is generally tidier and more reliable outdoors. A receptacle keeps the unit portable and easier to replace. Both are legitimate and we will explain the trade-off for your situation.

  4. Install the circuit

    Dedicated breaker, correctly sized conductors, conduit or cable appropriate to the route, and GFCI protection where the installation method requires it.

  5. Mount, commission and test

    Unit mounted at a sensible height, connected to your network if it has one, and tested through a real charging session before we leave.

Why it matters

What you get out of it

  • Charging speed that is actually useful

    Level 2 turns overnight charging from partial into complete, which is the practical difference between planning around the car and not thinking about it.

  • Sized for the next car too

    Running conductors for 60 amps while the wall is open costs very little more than 40 and saves the whole job being redone.

  • No surprise service upgrade

    The load calculation happens before you buy anything, so you find out what is involved at the quoting stage.

Questions

EV Chargers questions

Still not sure? Send us the details and we'll give you a straight answer before anything is booked.

Can my panel handle an EV charger?
Often yes, and the load calculation is what settles it. Where capacity is tight, a load management device that pauses charging when the house is drawing heavily is frequently cheaper than a service upgrade — and since the car is parked all night, you rarely notice the difference.
What amperage should I install?
Most home installations are 40 or 48 amps, on 50- or 60-amp circuits. Very few drivers benefit from more, because overnight charging is limited by hours available rather than by rate. Sizing the conductors generously is still worth doing while the run is open.
Hardwired or a 14-50 receptacle?
Hardwired for anything above 48 amps, for outdoor locations, and where you want the tidiest result. A receptacle if you might take the unit with you or want to swap it easily. Either way it needs its own dedicated circuit — sharing with the dryer is not an option.
Do you install chargers in detached garages and carports?
Yes. That usually means a feeder to a sub-panel at the structure, and wet-rated equipment for a carport or exterior wall. It is a larger job than a garage on the house, but a very common one.

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