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Lighting

Recessed & Can Lighting

Even, glare-free light from a ceiling plane you barely notice — laid out before anything is cut.

Overview

Recessed & Can Lighting — what's involved

Recessed lighting is judged entirely on layout. The same fixtures at the same spacing will either light a room evenly or produce a row of bright pools with dark gaps between them and a scalloped wash down the walls. Spacing, distance from the wall, beam angle and the position of the cans relative to what you are actually lighting — a counter, an island, a sink — are decided before a single hole is cut, because afterwards they are very difficult to change.

Electric Shock installs recessed lighting in finished ceilings as well as open framing. Retrofit housings and canless downlights go in through a hole not much bigger than the trim, which makes adding downlights to an existing room far less invasive than most people expect. The kitchen photographed above is a retrofit into a finished ceiling, laid out around the island and the work surfaces rather than on a uniform grid.

Remodeled open-plan kitchen lit by rows of recessed can lights, with three pendant fixtures hung over a marble waterfall island and a sconce above the range hood.
Recessed can lighting, island pendants and accent fixtures throughout a full kitchen remodel — our own work.
Included

Recessed lighting work

  • Layout planning for kitchens, living rooms, basements, hallways and bathrooms
  • Retrofit and canless downlights installed into existing finished ceilings
  • New-construction housings set in open framing before drywall
  • IC-rated and airtight housings where fixtures sit in insulated or sealed ceilings
  • Wet- and damp-rated trims for showers and covered exterior soffits
  • Dimming, with drivers and dimmers matched so the lights actually dim smoothly
  • Selectable color temperature trims, and correcting mismatched existing fixtures
How it works

The Recessed & Can Lighting process

  1. Lay the room out first

    We plan positions against the room's actual use and furniture — wall wash distance, spacing, and fixtures placed to light counters and islands rather than the backs of people standing at them.

  2. Check what is above the ceiling

    Joists, ductwork, plumbing and insulation all constrain where a can can physically go. We locate obstructions before cutting, which is what keeps a retrofit to one hole per fixture.

  3. Cut, wire and set

    Housings are wired and set with the correct rating for the ceiling — IC-rated in contact with insulation, airtight where the ceiling is a sealed plane.

  4. Match the dimming

    LED dimming only works well when the dimmer and driver are compatible. We specify them together, which is what prevents flicker and a dead zone at the bottom of the dial.

  5. Aim, trim and confirm

    Adjustable trims are aimed, color temperature is confirmed consistent across the room, and we look at it at night before calling it done.

Why it matters

What you get out of it

  • Light where the work is

    A layout built around counters, islands and seating beats a symmetrical grid every time, even though the grid looks tidier on a plan.

  • Retrofit without a rebuild

    Canless and retrofit housings mean a finished room can gain proper lighting without opening the ceiling.

  • Dimming that behaves

    Matched dimmers and drivers give smooth control to a genuinely low level rather than flicker and a sudden cut-off.

Questions

Recessed Lighting questions

Still not sure? Send us the details and we'll give you a straight answer before anything is booked.

How many downlights does a room need?
It depends on ceiling height, beam angle, fixture output and what the room is for — a kitchen work surface wants considerably more light than a bedroom. Spacing is usually derived from ceiling height as a starting point and then adjusted around the actual layout, which is why we plan it on site rather than quoting a number per square foot.
Can these go into a ceiling that is already finished?
Yes, and it is the most common version of this job. Retrofit and canless fixtures install through a hole cut to the fixture diameter, with no need to open the ceiling as long as the space above is accessible enough to route cable.
What is an IC-rated housing and do I need one?
IC stands for insulation contact — a housing rated to be covered by insulation without overheating. If the fixture sits in an insulated ceiling or attic floor, it must be IC-rated, and in most cases airtight as well so it is not venting conditioned air into the attic.

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