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Lighting

Under-Cabinet Lighting

Light on the counter instead of on your own shadow.

Overview

Under-Cabinet Lighting — what's involved

Overhead lighting puts you between the source and the counter, which means you work in your own shadow. Under-cabinet lighting is the fix: a light source below the wall cabinets, in front of you rather than behind, lighting the work surface directly. It is a small job with a disproportionate effect on how usable a kitchen actually is.

The difference between under-cabinet lighting that looks built-in and under-cabinet lighting that looks added is entirely in the concealment — the fixture set forward and behind the cabinet's face rail so no diode is visible from a standing position, and the wiring run through the cabinets rather than stapled along the wall. Electric Shock hardwires it wherever possible, because plug-in strips mean a visible cord and a receptacle doing a job it was not intended for.

Under-Cabinet Lighting

Photos of this work will appear here as jobs are documented.

Included

Under-cabinet and task lighting

  • Hardwired LED bars and linear tape in aluminum channel under wall cabinets
  • Concealed wiring routed through cabinet backs and into the wall
  • Dimmer, switch or occupancy-sensor control, on its own switch leg
  • Colour temperature matched to the room's other lighting
  • In-cabinet and glass-cabinet display lighting
  • Toe-kick and open-shelf accent lighting
  • Replacing old fluorescent or halogen under-cabinet fixtures with LED
How it works

The Under-Cabinet Lighting process

  1. Find the power

    Under-cabinet lighting needs a supply and a switch. We identify the nearest suitable source and the least invasive route, which is often through the cabinet run rather than through the wall.

  2. Position for concealment

    Set forward and behind the face rail so the source is hidden from standing eye level, and far enough from the backsplash to avoid a hot line of reflected glare on a glossy tile.

  3. Run the wiring out of sight

    Cable is routed through the cabinets and behind the backsplash where possible, so the finished job shows light and no hardware.

  4. Control and match

    Its own switch or dimmer, with colour temperature matched to the recessed and pendant lighting so the kitchen does not read as two different rooms.

Why it matters

What you get out of it

  • No working in your own shadow

    This is the entire reason to do it, and it is immediately obvious the first evening.

  • Invisible hardware

    Correctly set back, you see a lit counter and no fixture at all.

  • Usable low-level light

    Dimmed under-cabinet lighting is a much better kitchen night light than turning the ceiling on.

Questions

Under-Cabinet Lighting questions

Still not sure? Send us the details and we'll give you a straight answer before anything is booked.

Hardwired or plug-in?
Hardwired, if the kitchen allows it. Plug-in kits are cheaper but leave a cord and occupy a receptacle, and they are usually controlled by a small switch on the fixture rather than from the wall. During a remodel there is no reason not to hardwire.
Will I see the individual LEDs?
Not with a diffused bar or tape in channel set behind the face rail. You will if bare tape is stuck to the cabinet bottom, which is the most common way this gets done badly.
Can this be added without taking the kitchen apart?
Usually yes. Most of the route runs through the cabinets themselves, and the wall penetration is typically a single point behind a cabinet where it will never be seen.

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